Jean Paul Knott
Jean Paul Knott
ABOUT Jean-Paul KNOTT
JEANPAULKNOTT is a label for women and men sensitive to quality, originality and exclusivity.
Jean-Paul Knott has a travelling soul. He is Belgian, has grown up in New York and works in Brussels. He collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent for 11 years. He has been the artistic director of Krizia, Louis Féraud, Cerruti and has created costumes for Maurice Béjart ballets. He presents his JEANPAULKNOTT women and menswear collections on a regular basis since 2000.
Jean-Paul Knott explores the line, shows an ethereal nonchalance and impalpable elegance that makes his signature look. He mixes all the codes, masculine and feminine, ready-to-wear / Couture. He invites you to travel, fold, transform and he collaborates readily to his artist friends’ work.
RUE FRANZ MERJAY 147 IXELLES 1050 Belgium
Raf Simons
Raf SimonsBORN NEERPELT, BELGIUM IN 1968.
GRADUATES IN INDUSTRIAL DESIGN AND FURNITURE DESIGN IN 1991 AND STARTS WORKING AS A FURNITURE DESIGNER FOR GALLERIES AND PRIVATE INTERIORS. BEFORE THIS, RAF SIMONS INTERNED AT THE DESIGN STUDIO OF WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK, WORKING ON THE PRESENTATION AND DECORATION OF THE VAN BEIRENDONCK SHOWROOMS AND COLLECTIONS.
IN A RADICAL CHANGE OF PROFESSION, HEREBY ENCOURAGED BY LINDA LOPPA, HEAD OF THE FASHION DEPARTMENT OF THE ANTWERP ROYAL ACADEMY, HE BECOMES A SELF-TRAINED MENSWEAR DESIGNER IN 1995 AND LAUNCHES HIS RAF SIMONS LABEL.
DESIGNS THE MENSWEAR OUTFITS FOR RUFFO RESEARCH (SPRING-SUMMER 1999 AND AUTUMN-WINTER 1999-2000).
OCTOBER 2000, RAF SIMONS IS APPOINTED HEAD PROFESSOR OF THE FASHION DEPARTMENT OF THE UNIVERSITY OF APPLIED ARTS, VIENNA, AUSTRIA UNTIL JUNE 2005.
WINS FIRST PRIZE SWISS TEXTILES AWARD, LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND IN NOVEMBER 2003.
PRESENTS ‘RAF SIMONS REDUX’, A BOOK BY PETER DE POTTER AND RAF SIMONS (PUBLISHED BY CHARTA/FONDAZIONE PITTI DISCOVERY) COINCIDING WITH HIS LABEL’S 10TH ANNIVERSARY. ‘RAF SIMONS 1995-2005’, A FASHION/ART EVENT AT THE GIARDINI DI BOBOLI IN FLORENCE, ITALY (INITIATED AND PRODUCED BY THE FONDAZIONE PITTI DISCOVERY, JUNE 2005) EQUALLY CELEBRATES HIS FIRST DECADE IN FASHION.
NAMED CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF JIL SANDER (MENSWEAR AND WOMENSWEAR) FROM JULY 2005 UNTIL FEBRUARY 2012.
APRIL 2011, RAF SIMONS IS PRESIDENT OF THE FASHION JURY OF THE HYÈRES 26TH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF FASHION AND PHOTOGRAPHY.
CURATES TRANSMISSION 1, A THREE-DAY MULTIDISCIPLINARY EVENT IN BERLIN INITIATED AND SPONSORED BY MERCEDES-BENZ IN JULY 2011.
APRIL 2012 – NOMINATED ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF CHRISTIAN DIOR FOR WOMEN’S HAUTE COUTURE, READY-TO-WEAR AND ACCESSORY COLLECTIONS. RAF SIMONS PRESENTS HIS FIRST HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION IN JULY 2012.
LIVES AND WORKS IN ANTWERP, BELGIUM.
The most important message Raf Simons wants to communicate is:
PRIDE IN INDIVIDUALITY.
Fuelled by his love for both rebellious youth cultures and traditional menswear, he emerges in fashion halfway through the nineties, presenting a radically different image of masculinity. Fusing the energy and singularity of teenage subcultures with the sharpness and precision of classical sartorial craft, the look presented by Raf Simons is both inspired by and designed for confident outsiders.
From the first collection on, music, art, performance, images and words have a substantial role in the whole package, summing up, or rather clarifying the kind of world Raf Simons wants to project. Always at the core of his universe (and as essential as the clothes themselves) are attitudes, moods and statements about individuality and independence.
Equally important in Raf Simons’ approach is the constant quest for innovation. The designs are always looking for the now and tomorrow, even if they are inspired by historical or classical references. Throughout the years, with the signature style evolving and maturing, the key elements stay the same: modern proportions, a constant research for fabrics and textures and above all the interplay of pure construction and new shapes with the body and psyche of the contemporary man.
We are an independent creative label based in Brussels mainly active in the fashion, music and audiovisual sector.
GIUSEPPE VIRGONE
GIUSEPPE VIRGONEThe creation of a contemporary cloakroom including silhouettes both raw and poetic for the man. The dark colors, which have an important place in this cloakroom, are counterbalanced by the openings andforms created.
The superposition of materials brings a heavy side to the silhouette of the
GIUSEPPEVIRGONE man.
Every collections are designed and produced in Brussels. GIUSEPPEVIRGONE always tries to use fabrics from destocking. Prints are made in Netherlands.
Since 2017, the brand collaborates with the Belgian photographer Antoine Grenez for the prints and the pictures.
I have many sources of inspiration both musical, photographic and theatrical.
I particularly appreciate the director Romeo Castellucci who likes to work
on the decadence of beauty and the mystery of the end. I could also mention the singer Soap & Skin, for its heavy and captivating music, or the artist Anthony
Goicoela, for his work on male identity in search of his place in society. I collaborated with him for two collections.
About
1961: Birth
The story begins in a little village in south eastern Turkey. We are Sunday, it is October 29, 1961, Manufer Gulcu was born. Coming from a modest family, his father is farrier and his mother is housewife. In 1966, the family leaves the village to settle in the city, where his father opens his own workshop and reconverts into the manufacturing of horse saddles. During his early childhood, Manufer goes to school while working in his father’s workshop, where he gets familiar with a craftsmanship profession.
1972: Arrival in Istanbul
In 1972, Manufer Gulcu arrived with his family in Istanbul. The city is large and living conditions difficult, forcing Manufer to quit school at the age of 11 to find work. After accumulating odd jobs, Manufer found an apprentice position in a workshop located in the Beyazit district of Istanbul and discovered the profession of sewing there. Skillful with his hands, he quickly learns and develops technical skills. Very early on, working with leather and natural materials fascinates and ambitions him.
1978: Opening of his first workshop
In 1978, when he was only 17 years old, Manufer becomes an experienced couturier, the most respected position in the profession. His boss then offered him to take over the management of the workshop. He will accept the proposal and team up with his best friend to lead a team of eight workers. At a time considered to be the beginnings of the golden age of leather, Manufer saw its activity grow steadily.
1981: Arrival in Belgium
In 1981, in a tumultuous socio-economic context, Manufer decided to leave Istanbul for Europe, where everything had to be rebuilt. He will work for 3 years in different sewing workshops until the opening of his own workshop, which will later allow him to meet his wife. At that time, the importance of leather and shearling in the world of ready-to-wear was at its peak.
1987: The workshop burns down
On November 12, 1987, the building where the workshop is located burned down. Once again, everything has to be rebuilt. The accident prompted Manufer to renovate the Maison de Maître in Brussels located at 138 Avenue du Roi. He set up his workshops there, which he named MANUFERO, as a tribute to his origins. There he will develop his activities of creation, sales to professionals and individuals. He will also put his couturier know-how at the service of other designers, and will collaborate with prestigious houses such as Natan, Yves Saint-Laurent, Kris Van Assche and Jean-Paul Knot.
1992: 29thOctober is born
In his spirit of creation, Manufer Gulcu decides to put a name on his collections. In 1992, he created his brand, 29THOCTOBER, referring to a triple symbolic date for him and his family.
1999: Marie-Claire France
In 1999, the 29THOCTOBER brand obtained its first publication in a renowned magazine, Marie-Claire France.
2004: Paris international fair
In 2004, the 29THOCTOBER brand was present for the first time at the international ready-to-wear fair in Paris. This event will open the doors of French boutiques to the Maison and give it its European dimension.
2012: MIEL Catwalk
In 2012, the Maison took part in its very first fashion show, the MIEL Catwalk, and presented a preview of its winter 2013-2014 collection.
2018: The team is growing
In 2018, the 29THOCTOBER team is growing and becomes more than ever a family house. Benjamin and Lucie, Manufer’s children, join the company and give it a digital dimension by creating the online store.
2020: The range is growing
The brand takes precedence over innovation and diversification. More than ever willing to perpetuate its craftsmanship and put its know-how at the service of innovative and committed fashion, 29THOCTOBER is launching its first capsule collection in vegetable leather. On the occasion of its birthday, October 29, 2020, the brand unveils its bag line.
Avenue du Roi 138 Brussels 1190 Belgium
Rue Joseph Stevens 41 Brussels 1000 Belgium
T.VDB is the artistic fashion studio founded by Belgian multi-disciplinary fashion artist Tom Van der Borght.
The label focuses on humans rather than gender, as the core of T.VDB is hard to pinpoint under one binary definition, description or title.
T.VDB works as an independent artist, with a focus on fashion, textile, graphics, video, installation and scenography.
He is the producer of his own free work and works on commission for various partners.
Tom Van der Borght got his Fashion Design degree in 2012 at the Stedelijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten of Sint-Niklaas. Both during and after his studies he won international fashion prices and competitions.
From 2012 to 2016 he had the pleasure of showing his work during Berlin, Paris, London and Panama Fashion Week. His collections were sold in the USA, Japan and across Europe.
As a commissioned artist T.VDB worked for companies like Mercedes-Benz, Premiere Vision, DS Automobiles and Le19M. Next to that he creates artwork and video’s for national and international music artists.
In 2021 Tom received a master degree at Zuyd Hogeschool Maastricht, focusing on the intersection between performance, fashion and artistic research.
Before studying arts, Tom got his bachelors degree in Social Studies and worked for in various social organisations for several years.
Discovering at the age of 27 he suffers from a heriditary neuropathic muscle disorder confronted T.VDB with the question what is really important in life. This was the catharsic moment when he decided to study fashion design and pursue his childhood dreams.
During his study he was already confronted with the borders between fashion and art. Reflecting on his own background in social work and his own personal disposition in life led to questioning social structures, definitions, limits, … The visual language T.VDB develops goes far beyond clothes and is always creating a highly personal and questioning universe. It combines media and is crossing borders between fashion and arts.
T.VDB has an ongoing fascination for defects and errors, which comes from his own experience and the questioning of the genetic errors that shaped the designer from his birth.
Finding a place in society has always been a core element in Van der Borght’s work and life. This generated a strong interest for tribal culture, rituals and alternative/indigenous/ social structures, including elements like costumes, ritual dance and performative acts.
Being born in a typical Flemish middle class family, where culture didn’t really exist, T.VDB was fascinated by pop culture, MTV and subcultures.
“My first fashion inspiration came from the 80s, when i looked to magazines like “Mode, C’est Belge”. My mother’s classic couture training also influenced me in my love Of clothing.”
Later on in life I got introduced to more “higher” forms of “culture”. Essential in my work is the mix of those two opposites of “culture”, not necessarily as rivals or opposites. “
Marcel Duchamps once quoted : “ I do not believe in Art, I believe in Artists”.
T.VDB’s generous attitude and authentic radical way of thinking define him as a designer and an artist.
T.VDB ’s view on fashion (and clothes) isn’t purely economics:
his work could be seen as artistic objects. Clothes and outfits become part of a bigger pictures and crossing borders leads to creating a full universe, a total package.
It results in a fascination for creating video, scenography, performance and alternative ways of presentation.
A catwalk presentation has a very strong performative energy, being a boost of energy, a “hic et nunc” reflection on the present with a big artistic value.
Fashion is always a representation of the present. In his work T.VDB translates this in trying to marry the past to the future (which for him is the essence of “present”).
In 2019, T.VDB took a restart. He focuses on an elaborate masterpiece “7 ways to be TVDB”, which is a multidisciplinary selfportrait that borders on the edges between high tech bricolage, haute couture, avantgardistic fashion and low tech performance. A first stage of this work was presented in the FashionClash festival in Maastricht , and won both the Grand Jury Festival Prize as the Audience Award. With this collection the designer won the prestigious Grand Prix du Jury at the 35th Festival Internationale de La Mode de Hyères in 2020, as well as the highly desired Public Prize. His jubilant, theatrical men’s collection was praised by designer Jonathan Anderson, who presided over a jury that included, among others, consultant Amanda Harlech, model Kaia Gerber, sound maverick Michel Gaubert, photographer Tyler Mitchell, journalist Derek Blasberg and editor-in-chief of GQ, Oliver Lalanne
“What we really, really admired in the work of Tom Van Der Borght is that it was a totally new type of form, new type of shape, new type of commitment to a silhouette, and it was uncompromising,” Anderson said during a remote award ceremony. “And in this moment we are in, we as a jury believe that it was about starting this new decade with newness, this idea of originality.” Anderson continued: “It was not about looking at something for its automatic commercial sense. It was about the beauty within fashion, the handmade, the technique, and the risk in it. And I think Tom has really achieved something in what he has done and I think he will go on to do very well.”
In 2021, T.VDB had the honour to open Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin, with a stunning performance he created with choreographer Blanca Li, to accompany his latest collection.
For the 36th edition of the International Festival de la Mode, he launches his new collection “Time For Love”. The collection was realised in close collaboration with Le19M, Chanel’s legendary “ateliers des Metièrs d’Art” and the support of Premiere Vision.
In the troubled world we are living in nowadays, all of us are urging for connection and closeness. We’ve been distanced, physically and psychologically but now, it’s time for love.
T.VDB welcomes you to a brighter future and a celebration of human connection. The collection is an invitation to enter the playful and colorful universe of the collection. Garments leave the borders of the individual human body and search for connections with other humans through cut, detail and accessories. The pieces play on the intersection of textures, artwork and colour.
Everybody is invited to join this contemporary tribe of neo-hippies, lonesome cowboys and genderfluid hybrid creatures, feeling the emotion in the silence and embracing love as an empowerment tool.
BIO
LĒO is a Belgium-based brand that was established in 2016 by artistic director Leonneke Derksen (Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, Belgium) and founder Matthias Medaer.
LĒO was created in Paris, while gaining experience at fashion houses like Balenciaga and Carven.
This period was the base on which the vision of the brand was born, as the team got in touch and ultimately became part of a new generation of young designers.
Moving LĒO to the center of Europe (Brussels, Belgium) was a natural outcome of the need for full dedication to the brand and focus on the quality of it’s product, which is produced exclusively in Europe.
VISION
LĒO embodies the energy between luxury, avant-garde and street wear.
Experience over time formed a brand-specific set of values which consist of dedication to self-expression, nostalgia and the desire to push boundaries and evoke excitement.
Inspiration comes from various worlds and aesthetics and combines eras, movements, atmospheres and subcultures, regardless of codes.
Ideas are found in the space between external and internal experience and research is extracted from unique experiences in between quotidien performances and memorable rare involvements.
The brand displays the mind of different generations and the dualities that lie within them.
Attitude, authenticity and honesty are the essence of the LĒO customer.
PRODUCT
At the core of all reflections lays a product which represents a balance of quality and originality.
These products are carfully placed in worlds in which the brand expresses an original take on ‘reality’ and its movements.
LĒO garments oppose seriousness with spontaneity and question common rules with creativity and curiousness.
Wearing LĒO implements appreciation for sophistication and uniqueness. Distinguished shapes turn through worked-out bleaching and dying technics into one of a kind garments for a one of a kind wearer.
LĒO embraces the awkwardness and accentuates it’s inherent potential for innovation which can be recognised in the choice of material and reccurent elements like metal details.
Each collection is a mix of unexpected and iconic elements with a touch of ‘‘no rule“ humor.
This fuse contains on one side traditional tailored or classic technical elements that breathe rationality and on the other side the element of surprise, instinct and emotion.
21-25, Rue Gheude Brussels 1070 Belgium
Howlin’
Howlin’ABOUT
We are an Antwerp based knitwear brand.
Since 1981 we have been producing quality knitwear in Scotland and in 2009 we launched our new label Howlin’ (scottish slang for smelly). The way of manufacturing remains traditional but Howlin’ offers more room for fantasy in shape and pattern.
At Howlin’ we strive for timeless, playful products that are made with care. So whether it is a scarf or a shaggy waistcoat; all our products are individually manufactured and hand finished by traditionally skilled craftsmen in either Scotland, Ireland or Belgium using the highest quality yarns possible.
Small is beautiful.
MADE IN SCOTLAND
Scotland has a long history of producing the best knitwear in the world and we are happy to be involved in it for over 30 years.
Since the start of Howlin’ our goal was to bring a fresh somewhat twisted approach to Scottish knitwear while respecting its rich heritage. Keeping the best of the old techniques and mix it with new technology, patterns, colors and ideas.
In an ever faster and more automated economy we are happy to slow things down and have our focus on well made products. It’s a niche, we know, but we like niche products, a lot. Just like a small record label doing hand stamped 7 inches with personal liner notes. It’s the beauty in the details.
Each Howlin’ garment is handled individually and tenderly, throughout its entire production, from the first precise stitch to the delicate pressing and folding.
All our yarns are carefully sourced according to their quality and sustainability standards. Our beloved planet earth has a special place in our heart and we think it’s the best planet out there (as far as we know) so we want to have the lowest impact on it as possible.
Our natural yarns come from local mills, some even complete all the stages of yarn production under one roof. This includes grading, scouring and dyeing fleece before colour blending, carding, spinning, twisting and balling to produce this unique 100% pure Shetland yarn.
A quality which is often imitated but never duplicated.
MADE IN IRELAND
Over the years we have been working closely with a small Irish family run company established centuries ago.
Together with these master crafts people we produce the highest quality knitwear with local Irish yarns.
We have to admit, at first we got strange looks when we came up with our ideas but that changed over the years, now it’s simply that classic smile when they see a new Howlin’ design.
We are very happy to contribute to this unique art and craft which is not only beautiful but also important culturally to remain alive.
Producing in Ireland (and Scotland, and Belgium) not only means you have a truly unique product in your hand, it also means that the people making your goods are well paid and looked after.
MADE IN BELGIUM
Next to our Scottish and Irish knitwear we are happy to create products in our home country Belgium.
Together with several small factories in Belgium, each carefully chosen for their own speciality, we managed to make a diverse range of products which include lighter weight knitwear, jersey and towel fabric garments.
Our goal was to create durable, functional and original products which far outlives seasonal trends.
All pieces are produced in small batches and with close attention to details.
Extra special is the fact that for our jersey we don’t import fabrics but that we knit everything entirely in-house.
Therefore we can proudly say that all our Howlin’ products are truly 100% produced in Belgium.
Nationalestraat 20 Antwerpen 2000 Belgium
Kopstraatje 3 2000 Antwerp Belgium
Work philosophy
After studies in graphic art, I graduated in fashion design from the Francisco Ferrer School (Brussels). I then completed my knowledge within the Federation of Master-tailors of France (Paris). Since 2014, I have been increasing my professional experiences, in Belgium or internationally, with big names like Scabal, Natan or on a personal basis in my own workshop.
Passion in the blood
My grandmother was a seamstress and in a sewing workshop; my mother was a sewing teacher for 25 years. My interest in the profession of tailor came later. It was the artisan side that attracted me then. It’s a rope that I have added to the family tradition. The specificities of his work Both an artisanal tailor and a trained stylist, I strive to blend harmoniously the traditional work of the artisan tailor with current sewing techniques.
Rue de la Ferme Romaine 11 Andenne 5300 Belgium
Sofie D’Hoore
Sofie D’HooreBoulevard Barthélémy 11 Brussels 1000 Belgium